Choosing the right saddle tends to be an iterative process — most experienced riders have tried a few before settling on a favourite.
To avoid buying a succession of bike saddles, think about what it is with your current one that isn’t working for you.
If it’s just that it’s comfortable, but knackered or just a bit heavy, then choosing a new one is fairly easy. The same saddle shape is usually available in a range of prices, materials and weights, so upgrading within the same family is generally a safe bet.
A bigger challenge is replacing a saddle because it’s uncomfortable. This needs a bit of thought — try to pin down what it is that doesn’t work for you.
If you feel you have to constantly correct your seating position, why not try a seat with a more pronounced dip to keep you in one place? Maybe it’s too wide and rubs your legs or you like to sit on the nose but it’s hard and narrow? Use your observations of previous perches to narrow down your choice.
Once you’ve got a checklist, see if you can audition some likely candidates.
This might involve having a ride on a friend’s bike or getting test rides at shop or manufacturer demo days. Some shops have saddle demo schemes so you can get a few miles in before buying and some manufacturers have 30-day ‘comfort guarantee’ schemes for risk-free purchasing.
While it may be tempting to try and pick up a bargain online, a visit to a well stocked and knowledgeable bike shop that knows its saddles — and what type of rider they fit best — can save you a whole load of frustration.
There are variations between mountain bike and road cycling saddles — mountain bike saddles are usually made from stronger, more durable materials, and road bike saddles tend to be lighter, for example — but fundamentally, the things you need to consider to find one that suits you are the same.
Here’s what you need to consider…
Most modern saddles use synthetic materials, although you’ll still find real leather on more expensive ones. The key thing is to make sure any seams, sticky bits or reinforcing panels don’t chafe.
Mountain bike saddles are likely to suffer crashes, so a hard-wearing cover is essential.
The base of the saddle controls its basic shape and how springy it is. Several manufacturers produce different width or shaped shells for different physiques.
The majority of saddles have a Nylon shell, but often there’ll be some carbon reinforcement.
Really posh perches have all-carbon shells.
Some saddle shells have a groove in the centre or a hole cut out — this is designed to reduce pressure and heat around your most sensitive veins and nerves.
Padding distributes pressure from your behind across the surface of the saddle. Polyurethane foam is the most common padding material — it comes in a range of densities to give firm or soft saddles.
The crucial thing to remember is that while a soft, deep saddle might feel comfortable at first for a beginner, more contact and movement is likely to increase heat and discomfort the longer you’re in the saddle.
The rails are the bars that the seatpost clamps onto under the saddle. Cheaper saddles use steel alloys, while titanium or carbon rails make for a lighter saddle.
Single rail saddle and post systems — such as the SDG i-Beam — are gaining ground for both road and mountain bikes for their light weight and adjustability.
You’ll find all sorts of other touches on bicycle saddles, from Kevlar-reinforced corners or plastic bumpers, to built-in mounts for tail lights or saddle packs.
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